Thru Kenya on a transit visa 27^th Dec- 3^rd Jan 2006

As is our want to travel to the more remote areas, our chosen route took us slightly easterly across, then northwards, and finally north-east from our entry point in western Kenya to our exit into Ethiopia. Not for the faint hearted our guide books stated- always a challenge to us! Through the wilder areas of the Rift valley, with its ancient tribes, we went via Eldoret, Lake Baringo, Lake Turkana, Chalbi desert, Marsabit and finally Moyale at the Ethiopean border. We ended up with a bit of a race against time, as Id entered Kenya on a transit visa to save money (rog being from RSA was free), and was only allowed 7 days. On the 8^th I realized that I was an illegal alien, but as you will have surmised, I got through-the officials didnt even read the visa details!

Landscapes; The Jade colours of Lake Turkana, surrounded by dry volcanic boulders which make it inaccessible and inhospitable. The land is saturated with salt, disabling any vegetation growth- hence no vegetables or fruit for hundreds of kilometres. Saltpan desert, arid barren  semi deserts, endless atrocious rock-strewn, corrugated, tyre shredding  roads (no wonder there are no other vehicles- Rog still trying to glue his fillings back in!). It is no different for the rather grand sounding trans east african highway either. Panoramic Rift valley views.

Climate; Sunny hot and dry in lower altitudes, whereas between 7000 and 8000 ft we chilled in the winds at night. By day we boiled, but at night huddled in front of a fire or in our sleeping bags. Droughts everywhere- no rain for 10months, means no food or water for both humans and animals. We came across plenty of carcasses in the semi desert areas. Where is relief aid?

People; Nomadic families crossing the desert with camel packs, donkeys and goats. Very afraid of us. Male and female Sumburu and Turkana tribes, traditionally dressed in loose red shawls with heavy beaded jewelry and long spears. The Turkana are so isolated no public transport, little food ( blood, milk, meat and some foreign aid excepting), and less welcoming, maybe more wary. The Sumburu and westernized Kenyans came across as very friendly and polite, interested but not pushy or aggressive. The former were very keen to share their beliefs and customs. A German priest in the desert, whose company and hospitality we were fortunate to share and who taught us so much about life in the desert. He also kindly drew us a map of the tracks that cross the desert- these are uncharted as they are eliminated for 3 months after rains. A honeymoon couple who sat with us one evening and shared a boat trip on the lake watching the sun rise whilst waiting for hippo and croc and exotic birdlife to reveal themselves.

Accommodation; 2 nights at a plush camp site on a hillside, another campsite by a lake with hippos grunting nearby and tropical birds galore, a night on a windy escarpment, expecting the tent to blow away, but with astounding views over the rift valley- sleeping while a samburu warrior guarded over us; 2 nights at missions- one on the edge of the chalbi desert, and another under a mountain while hyenas howled all night around us. 1night in an oasis where hot water springs fed into a swimming pool.

Activities; Repairs to truck- spotlight and number plates fell off, welding and metal fatigue in various areas, overheated battery and its clamps buckled, rock bent wheel rim which caused a blow out. Successful repair job tho. Early morning boat ride as above. Visit to a cheese factory- purchased 2 lbs of best quality cheddar-yummy. Exploring the north west-navigating our way across semi deserts and mountains to Lake Turkana, then swimming in hot water springs on New Years Eve; being brave and foolish in crossing the chalbi dessert with only a hand written sketch. Trying to overtake a camel who insisted on running alongside us at 40 km per hr!!

Food; Mostly self catering, buying fish, eggs, fruit and veg when possible. Curry, rice, chapattis are local specialities and very cheap . Tusker beer and tea thats boiled with milk and sugar.  Remember that the villagers have nothing-I often gave away fruit and veg, feeling so guilty at having bought it from quite a distance away and having the means to do so. Totally humbling.

Animals; Camel trains, carcasses of malnourished. Didnt pay to go into game parks but saw plenty on our journeying- ostrich, hippo, elephant, croc, ground squirrels, baboons, a 65 year old tortoise who liked rog tickling his chin, thompsons gazelle and 2 strains of zebra- one very rare. The most moving part of our trip for me- walking into a waterhole amongst 1000 camel, tribal folks, 100s of goats, cows and donkeys. Just standing there with them in the heat, with the dust, the noise and the smells. Could have spent a whole day there- what a privilege.