Its Pam n Rog reporting from the first of our 3 equator crossings, but have to say that our satellite readings and the Ugandan memorial dont exactly agree! at least 200metres apart. Needless to say we had the statutory pic taken on self timer. Its very hot and dry here- over 90 degrees so celebrated with an ice cold ginger beer. Well we,ve had 3 days in Uganda already, using 3 decent maps this time, but surprise surprise- each is different, so totally confused. However, we slipped through the border with our usual ease, heading the short distance to the Ugandan side of the volcanoes alongside the congolese border. Between 11000' and 13000' they were too high for us old crocs to climb, so we settled for a 5 hr, 10km trek along the lowlands at the base. Scenery as usual exquisite- we passed thru bamboo forests, primary rain forest and fields of wild flowers, looking out for the elephant, gorilla and buffalo that had been out earlier in the day. Our rangers each carried AK47 machine guns-whether it was for the animals or congolese rebels we never did find out. Rog managed to pee in the Congo anyway-obviously no border control (or bladder!!) up there.

The 2nd and 3rd days we drove forever northwards on treacherous, tho dry roads. The dust we trailed behind was dense and prolonged (we know because the occasional traffic going t'other way did the same for us). Poor ol rog complained bitterly that his new air filter was getting blocked up again. Shopping to buy eggs and fresh veg on the road was a pleasure here- the Ugandans are very friendly and undemanding. Our overnight stops are also easier as this country have quite a few camp sites, particularly community run ones which are quiet and cheap. A sqat loo and a bucket for a shower---they offer hot water, but it takes 3 hours as they go off to the forest to gather wood, light a fire, fetch water from a borehole or stream--and only then can they boil it. Humbling eh? Remember that when you are running a bath.

Our route from the equator took us through a game park, so we were fortunate to see elephant, hippo, water buffalo, huge baboons and loads of birds without paying a penny. Well, not quite- i flew over a large hump, landed the truck painfully and we will now have to bare the expense of new suspension and more welding!

Undeterred we have visited a forest alongside the congolese border where there are 3 unusual tribes living there. Very interesting features, altho only observed them while driving thru. We were also able to visit some hot springs, boil eggs and tea for breakfast- obviosly far too hot to bathe in, but a weird phenominon in the middle of tropiocal rain forest. ------------------------------------------------------------

27^th Dec approaching Ugandan/Kenyan border

Xmas festivities over, we are now on our way to Kenya-about 2 hrs drive away. What a shame- this country has so much to offer, feels secure and safe, and almost as important- its relatively cheap. We could spend months here. Unfortunately our Sudanese visa expires on 9^th Feb, so we must press on.

To recap; Xmas eve we spent camping at Lake Nkuruba- our 2^nd visit. Its a stunning small crater lake which is safe to swim in. The crater edge is forested, with 3 types of friendly monkey (vernix, red colobus and black n white colubus) living there, alongside a multitude of exotic birds. Our meal that night was very fresh steak- wed seen cows being slaughtered in each village on the road side earlier, so stopped at one butchery and purchased a kg- much to the amusement of the villagers. Unfortunately it was as tough as boot soles, but we needed the protein so spent the night chewing!

Awaking on xmas day to the serenade of monkeys and birds, we swam in the lake, whilst washing up from the night before, then made a cooked breaky before setting off for Kampala 4 hrs away. We passed through such diverse agriculture; tea, coffee, vanilla, cocoa, and sugar cane. The bakkie had its xmas pressy too- we were on tarmac almost all the way. Whooppeee- we decided to call the bakkie zebadee-from the magic roundabout- always springing up n down! Xmas night at the campsite was a dream, copious hot running water, sit down loos with toilet paper, bar, restaurant, main line telephones and free internet. The whole package was so cheap. Exuberated we washed everything in sight, ordered a fish n chip dinner, then spent the evening on the internet catching up with you all. So nice to keep in touch.

Boxing day- we finished off the previous evenings activities, finally leaving at lunchtime. That night we again found a beautiful camp site overlooking the Nile as it flows over the rapids from Lake Victoria. Fascinating to recall that wed seen its southern most source in the mountains in Rwanda- one direction came north with us to the med, whilst the other side of the mountain took the water through the Congo on its way to the Atlantic. That evening we ate Nile Perch which wed found in a modern supermarket in Kampala. Yummy!  So Goodbye to Uganda, and thank you.  

Household info ; Weve been away 41 days, driven 9460 kms, spent R 7685 on diesel ( 16 pounds a day), and a further R 10449 on every thing else ( 22 pounds a day)

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