MONDAY 12^TH DEC SOMEWHERE IN TANZANIA - S 6, 8.  E 30, 13

Hello again. After reading the lonely planet guide (Africa on a shoe string), wed decided to do the alternative experience in Tanzania- Serengeti, ngorogoro and Zanzibar being the normal tourist path The book informed us that the Mahle mountains on the shore of Lake Tanganika in western Tanzania was the remotest part-the fact that they had humanized chimps was great too-added incentive to this decision was that Rwuanda was our next country with the entry point being in the west. Kitted out with 75L of water, 180L diesel and dry food provisions to last us 3 weeks (bought from SA),but alas a poor small scale map we headed off. For 5 days we got ourselves deeper and deeper into trouble! Admittedly the position of the sun and our GPS helped us to pinpoint our position but we seemed determined to explore further where it seemed impossible to pass. One occasion we took 6 hrs to drive 72 kms! Villagers gaped in amazement as we passed through-often on pedestrian tracks rather than vehicle routes. (we saw no evidence of any other vehicles for all this time), stopping to buy mangoes or tomatoes, and trying to ask the way in swahili was all a very entertaining experience for all concerned. 4 of these nights we had to camp out in the wilds-wherever we could find a secluded and safe spot. One night we were woken by poachers shooting, another by a wild animal mournfully crying at the bottom of our ladder (we sleep 7 above the ground), and another by the side of the track that was too slippery to climb back up after a rain storm( we only got out the next day using a full set of chains -thank you the Barkers for introducing these to us). All in all the mountainous areas (between 3500 ft and 5500ft) were spectacular,mostly sub tropical forest, but alas we were unable to find the chimps as at the very last stage of our journey, we came across a river that was too deep to cross-aaagh! We later found out that the only safe way to reach the chimps was by train to the lake and then by steamer-so inaccessible was that area! O well. I dont actually think we would have tackled this route without John Riches advanced 4 x 4 driving course- so many thanks indeed John. A few memorable moments to share with you; Pacifying small children who scream and run away on seeing us-one of us has to get out of the bakkie to walk, direct and lead the route in front on many occasions- by taking photos and showing them the pic what a blessing digital cameras are. Finding a cold water shower in a deserted house and being able to wash off 5 days of grime and red sand. Strip washing in the light of a full moon, standing in a bowl of water (sharing 1 litre) next to the truck. Washing utensils, ourselves and the truck on the rivers with the locals. Huddling under the tent tarpaulin cover during a thunderstorm watching the lightening and sunset on perched on the side of the mountain.  Standing in a nest of large biting ants- had to rip off all clothes and charge into the nearby river. Hoards of insects at night, and flies (also tetsie which transmit sleeping sickness). Not so many mossies tho. Stopping 1 night and miming to a passing villager that we wanted to buy a chicken ( arms waving and sound of hen laying egg)-listened to the sound of drums all night-waking the next morning to find 2 chickens sitting there. Hard to tell- but surely those drums were telling of our presence and need for protein? That was a Sunday morning, which progressed with us wringing their necks, plucking and gutting, then burying the rubbish. After putting in our fridge, these scraggy hens actually braaied very well.

All in all an amazing experience, lots learnt-especially a decent map and a guide (there are no camp sites, no hotels, no white people and no English spoken. BUT absolutely no regrets.

Wednesday 14^TH DECEMBER, EXITING TANZANIA AT RUSUMU.

Our last 2 days in Tanzania- hard to believe we have been to 5 countries in 4 weeks, travelled 7244 kms with our daily spending averaging at R199 ( 16 quid) for us both, excepting fuel which is more than double this. The roads had improved- largely due to an immense input from UN- there were many refugee camps along the route, supported by a variety of countries and charities and housing people from Burundi, Rwuanda and Congo. So much so we managed to camp at a Roman Catholic Mission and use their warm water shower----what bliss. As you might gather by now we get absolutely filthy- our bodies, clothes, eating utensils and truck are ingrained with dust. Our next stop is over the border at Kigali- hopefully in a hotel with bath, telly and food. I shall pamper myself  whilst Rog does some equally necessary welding on the truck and oil changes.