3RD December 2005 MALAWI  S 14, 02, E 34, 49

Sitting on the shores of vast Lake Malawi, at Cape Maclear, it is hard to believe we are not by the sea. Despite the clear day we cannot see the distant shoreline, there are shells on the beach and we are camped off in a bay-again all alone, snorkeling amongst the rocks. Well, not quite alone, at breakfast we had monkeys and baboons in the tent and bakkie, looking for food! Fortunately they only found mangoes (of which we have plenty). After that we watched a water monitor dig a hole in the sand in front of us, whilst a pair of fish eagles joined the cormorants and hammerkops finding their own breakfast. What a life! We even have our own cook who despite no electricity or running water here, made us a beautiful fish stew and potatoes. Tonights meal will be goat stew and rice. Yum.

Our 2^nd night in Malawi we spent in a game reserve close to our first nights stop. It was deserted- we were the sole occupants of Malawis finest park. The thatched hut we stayed in was beautifully landscaped yet completely open to the baboons, hippo and elephant wandering around. That night tho- we didnt see the elephant until we were about ½ hr from our beds. Many noisy pigs and hippos sung us to sleep instead.

Today rog is maintaining the truck and inspecting the damage that these roads cause- the bumps and shaking cause lots of minor breakages with bits needing rewelding, straightening etc. Ive washed clothes and shall read and write, swim and take photos and swat these damn flies. Tough life eh?  I have managed a few stats tho- we have traveled Km 4882 and consumed a vast R 4740 about 400 quid in diesel.

5^th December  NKATA BAY, MALAWI   S 11, 36; E 34, 17

We arrived here around mid afternoon- a pleasant surprise as most of the 6 hr journey northwards following this vast lake, turned out to be on tarmac with excellent road signs (there were none at all in Mozambique). Even the police at road blocks were welcoming and friendly (wed been led to expect otherwise), so the kilometers flew over the odometer. We decided to make use of their service and asked questions like what fruit is this, are the mushrooms edible and what is speed limit on roads.  Still little food for sale on the roadsides, dried fish excepting, but we did secure an unripe water melon. We also noticed large bags of maize meal meal being distributed from Angola. Apparently the crops here failed again last year.  Our evening here was so relaxing- we sat in a rickety bamboo hut on stilts over the lake reading, eating fresh fish (cooked for us!) and watching the sun go down and the Ilaha ferry load up and sail off across the lake. Geoff- we have secured a bunk bed for you, but perhaps youd better buy the whole boat- will email a pic when we find a comp that will do so!.

So, back to the last epistle at Cape Maclear; The 2 nights we spent there were so enjoyable. Some local boys took us by boat over to an island where we snorkeled whilst they made a fire and cooked us fish n rice. The small fish in the sea were iridescent and enjoyed our leftovers. Enoch (our host) even called the fish eagles over who fed about 3 metres from our boat. Back at camp it was boiling and overcome by heat, sun, chasing baboons and  swatting flies, we hid in our roof top tent til dusk- reading in front of the fan behing mosquito netting.  Foster did us proud with dinner again- even finding pumpkin leaves to cook as vegetables (was ok, bit like nettles!). On packing up the next morning we found a scorpion hiding under our toilet/shower tent. Some little boys whod come to watch us killed it quickly then proceeded to pull all our rubbish apart and take it all home to recycle. What a humbling experience- they were overjoyed with their treasure of empty juice cartons and oil bottles. We gave them our spare mangoes which they devoured greedily, where upon the baboons got agitated waiting for the stones and peel.  

7^th Dec MALAWIAN/TANZANIAN BORDER- 5635 kms and 21 days traveling.

Waiting at the border post for the Tanzanian customs official to turn up. Very sad to leave Malawi- we felt safe and secure at all times, the people very polite, happy, honest and friendly despite having very little. As we leave they are preparing the fields for this seasons crops- we do hope the rains come for them. Occasionally we would be asked for money or help with families. On explaining that we were unable to help EVERYONE, they smiled, said thank you, and went off. No hassling at all. There is a big input from charities here- signs up all over the place, maybe its their Christian life style. They do remain rather more affluent than the Mozabecans- majority of houses are built of brick rather than mud, although the roofs still consist of reeds and bamboo;and there are far more water pumps, meaning less of a distance to carry 25L containers.

Yesterday we only traveled 178 kms (we try and aim for over 400), spending a few hours in a town seeking out a functional internet café. Got the coffee and cake (wow, first since RSA), but very slow internet so unable to update website. Did get through to hotmail though- thankyou for your news every one. Tis so appreciated.- keep it up please, even if we are unable to personally reply to all.  We also had a pair of long thin pants tailor made for rog to keep out mozzies at night. Only R20! Later we took a very old scenic track up to Livingstonia- 4400 ft up in the mountains, with a splendid view over the lake. And cool at nightat last! This village was constructed over a 100 years ago as a mission to continue David Livingstones work. We inadvertently have followed his path for the past 2 weeks and have great admiration for his enthusiasm and stamina. Its impossible for us to walk anywhere in this heat- and can only survive with the aircon on in the bakkie. It was quite a humbling experience to be able to camp and use the toilet facilties in the original mission house. I should mention that we came across our first white fellow travellers this whole trip- 2 gentlemen from Scotland who were spending a week of solitude there. Leaving the next morning necessitated a 3000 ft descent over 25 kms- a series of hairpin bends on a single lane gravel track. Quite dangerous, and unpassable in the wet season- but today it was breathtaking.