jungle boy 
volcano erupting 
tanna housing Vanuatu is only a 1 ½ hr flight from Fiji- we were treated to excellent service by air pacific again. Just a handful of us tourists entered the country via a tiny airport, but we were treated to some live Melanesia music- a happy band of singers with guitars. French and English speaking Vanuatu is made up of 83 islands- some uninhabited- with a total population of 175000 people. Wed preplanned and booked our trip so that we had 3 nights on Efate (the main island), then 6 on the volcanic island of Tanna, with 2 more back in the capital. But no planning quite prepared us for this country. The people were very black, their features quite ugly and almost scary-they descend from Papua new guinea-, and they live a very basic simple lifestyle. But we soon learned that they are a peaceful genuinely friendly community, with no grudges or prejudice. Alas, it is also malarial country- so it is prophylactic doxycycline again and a phobia of mozzy bites! The climate was hot and sticky and humid, even though it was spring time. Wonderful for me, but rog wilted a bit. Still, the sun didnt shine all the time; there was certainly a lot of cloud and even rain about. Vanuatu certainly has a future as a holiday destination-and is ripe for development, as the Australians have already found out. (Its only a 3hr flight for them). But as yet there is little infrastructure in for tourism. It can only be compared to raw wild Africa
My choice of accommodation close to the capital turned out to be not one of my better ones- our hillside shack was a bit dirty, very basic, had no hot water and was a 40min walk to town. The telling point was that there were no other guests! But we made do- reminiscing over similar experiences in our youth- and as we were to find out- this really was Vanuatu!
Port Vila, the capital soon felt homely. Being such a small capital we were able to explore most of it. There are no buses- you just hail a passing minibus (they pass by every 3 min), tell it your destination. They drive on the right, and for 50p you will be taken right to your destination. The 24hr market was colourful and busy. We bought fruit, coconut crab and other little bits there. One lunchtime we sat with the locals eating huge plates of steaming fresh local food- taro, manioca, and pumpkin with a tasty tender beef stew. Another time we took a take away of tuna and rice- at a quarter of the restaurant prices. (Vanuatu has wonderful fish and top quality beef which it exports to oz.) Quite where the cows are we never did find out- all we saw were mangroves and indigenous forest. We took a walk around the museum one rainy morning only to find that a cruise liner had just come into port and dropped quite a crowd in our direction. Port Vila and its inhabitants rely on tourism from this source very heavily. It as interesting to note that all the stall holders and shops steeply increased their prices over the 12 hr period that the passengers were in port! Rog found a dear little library to browse in, with ancient old books, whilst I just walked around the shops and market absorbing the smells and sounds of what was really Africa. The beaches in town were actually offshore island, so we went to visit 2 of them. Iriki was an indulgent resort, so we only managed a free tour on a golf cart and a cuppa. Hideaway Island though was a bit more down market, so we spent a day there, sunning ourselves on a deck chair and snorkeling in the shallows. An average reef, but large fish abounded and were easily spotted.
One might describe our evenings at our residence a bit sad- no easy chairs, no library, radio or telly or fellow travelers to keep us amused. To vary our book reading we went off one evening on a cultural trip for a Melanesia feast. The villagers cooked lap lap- food cooked under hot coals in a hole in the ground- for us, then put on a prolonged dancing and singing display. A very authentic demonstration of Vanuatus ancient culture.
Tanna island was just a 35 min flight south in a 42 seater plane packed to capacity. (Lack of security was quite a farce- we could have taken anything on board). The scenery underneath was beautiful at take off and landing- coral islands with reefs and beaches creating all varieties of blues, greens and yellows. This airport was just a tiny building the poor old porters had to haul in our luggage on wheelbarrows! Just a 2 minute drive away was our accommodation for 3 nights- a slightly more sophisticated bungalow under banyan trees, perched on top of a cliff overlooking the sea. It was such a relief to be treated as a holiday maker again -hot water, clean towels, mossy nets, comfortable seats, fresh sheets with flowers on the pillows, nice food and other travelers to exchange stories with. For 3 days we did little but eat, swim and kayak. The coral reef was a bit hard to walk over, but was so worth it- the colours of the live coral itself (pinks, yellows, browns, greens) and then at the edge a 50 ft plunge straight down into deep blue clear waters. WOW. Im most definitely not a water baby, bit this was something else. Even though my heart was beating wildly in my mouth, I was in awe of the fish and their tropical garden. Each day I felt I was getting a bit braver as I went back for more. I even became greedy looking for a turtle or reef shark. Needless to say we saw neither- but had our fair share of poisonous sea snakes- one almost getting stuck in my goggles!
One couple we met were New Zealanders doing 2 months voluntary work back in Vila. Phoebe was a midwife and Nicko a lawyer, but working as a builder. They interested us with their tales, so much that we arranged to meet them the next week at the hospital. Most of the other holiday makers were French teachers- it was the school holidays of nearby New Caledonia. Out other tale was being invited to the next door village of the lodge owner where his 12 yr old son was having a celebration of his circumcision the year previously. For an hour or so we were treated to a traditional ceremony in where both sets of his grandparents families sang and exchanged presents. The chief greeted us and even encouraged us to take lots of photos! All too soon it was time to leave tanna evergreen for our next adventurebut we had to laugh at the bill when they charged us a considerable amount for each flask of hot water!!! Such is lifebut we had enjoyed ourselves whatever.
Jungle lodge was to be our next home for 3 nights- set under the volcano mt yasur, and over the other side of the island. The owner, Kelson, sent his almost new Mitsubishi l200 to pick us up. What luxury. Wed been warned of the dreadful roads and the consequent dust- so how lucky for us that we sat inside the bakky in comparative comfort on the enjoyable 1 ½ hr journey- memories of our trip through Africa flooding back. Raw and wild. There is nothing on Tanna except a few tracks through the forest and this active volcano that sits on its own surrounded by a vast areas of ash and strewn rocks- creating a stark moonscape of large black sand dunes. The 20000 inhabitants of this island have largely chosen to keep their original customs and culture- one of our reasons to choose it. Despite their simple housing and lack of any mod cons, there was a general feeling of happiness. The views on this journey were brilliant, until we finally reached our lodge. It should actually be advertised as a village experience, because in reality thats what it was. People would pay a fortune for this opportunity. Chickens, pigs, dogs and children surrounded us and treated us just like part of the family. Kelsons village had just put a few extra grass huts up for visitors. Once more we were the only guests that dayand so had the pick of the place. Walking through the compound ankle deep in dry sandy black ash, we eyed a tree house, but it had no front wall, door or furniture in. Kelson was looking at some disconnected wiring with puzzlement. We chose a simple hut, but within a few hrs an unknown creature had eaten my hoard of bread!! Along with the realities of cockroaches, no electricity, filth, mozzys, and sticky humid heat, the romantic idea of jungle life soon disappears! It seemed our entertainment here was in the lap of the gods. Rog helped kelson wire some electricity from the generator, whilst I was content to read and listen and feel the regular rumbles from the volcano- some lifted the galvanized roof sheeting off the dining area. Later that first night, just before sunset, Sam, the driver took us up the ridge to see the action from the active crater. Mt yasur ( 361m) is reputed to be the worlds most accessible active volcano and we were able to park just 10 mins walk from the activity. Wed been warned of the dangers of this trip- lava the size of cars can be propelled into the air regularly and just a few years ago, a few tourists and a local guide were killed by one piece. Charlie- our rather hopeless guide- did little to protect us; he sat behind a rocky outcrop with some friends! Despite clouds we were treated to quite a visual and noisy display. Roaring sounds were almost continual, (I could liken them to a dragon) then sudden explosions of hot volcanic rock were shot into the air. Many photos and 1 ½ hrs later, we slipped our way back to our vehicle, by now in pitch darkness. Back in the village we were treated to the first of some brilliant meals. How jerry (the chef), could produce such exquisite cuisine without even a fridge and only 2 gas rings, was beyond both of us. The closest shop was 1 ½ hrs away (where we first stayed), so supplies werent easy to obtain. We were to repeat the volcano trip on our 3rd night, with clearer weather which made the explosions seem even more spectacular and colourful. Fireworks, gas and continual red fire. Quite something.
Wed arrived at jungle lodge at the same time as 2 police officers. Kelson had called them in because he was fed up of the village boys smoking dope and with the effect it was having on them. These poor youngsters have nothing to do with their young lives, and I guess were entertained by being stoned. Anyway, the whole village came to a standstill whilst we were there. Firstly meetings were called with the chiefs and elders, followed by interviews with each boy separately. In the evening we were treated to the tales of what had gone on during the day. Together with the problem of no one in the area having fuel for transport (until a boat arrived from Vila), and no boys available to show us around, we found ourselves stranded in the ash laden scenery! To extenuate the long days even more we were woken each morning by bells at 5 .30 which were used to call the village to devotion. If that call failed, we were still kept awake by cockerels, birds and mozzies! Fortunately we were lucky to be shipwrecked with a welsh/ozzy couple, so we kept each other amused with travellers tails over our meals. We walked to a dispensary nearby and chatted to Solomon, a male nurse who ran the clinic single-handed, with input once a month from a Canadian dr. His building had great potential, but was sadly lacking running water, a toilet and mattresses for the beds. Then another day, all 4 of us hitched a lift with a Japanese girl who was making a fun video for Japanese television. Her lodge had been more sensible and obtained or stored enough fuel. Although wed waited about 2 hrs for a lift, it was well worth while, as we got to see quite a bit of the island (including reef sharks) and had fun bouncing around in or as in the case of the boys, outside the dusty back of the pickup. We also moved into the tree house, which kelson managed to put together with surprising speed. At that height, it seemed a bit cooler and the insects further away- but especially nice was being able to watch a red glow in the night sky, as mt yasur continued its busy life.
On our last morning, the boys had been given a normal life back (2 had been taken to jail), so they treated me to a real jungle experience. At an early hour, it seemed I was the only taker, so set off with one of the youngsters (late teens I expect). Totally unprepared, I found myself alone, and a bit scared, before these boys, dressed in costumes of just leaves, jumped out of bushes and trees to ambush me. Full of nerves, as I realized that I had our passports and all our money in my pockets, I jumped out of my skin, before recognizing our guide Charlie. For almost an hour this cultural trip enthralled me as they acted out life as it was in the 1800s when white man was considered a threat and cannibalism was still practiced! Even to show me some black magic (levitation) and how to light a fire without matches or fuel. At the end they sat me down on a log, singing sweetly to me. A truly mind-blowing experience. Leaving here was odd- a relief in a way that we had survived 3 days in the middle of nowhere- hot and dusty with no control over anything. Yet feeling a certain amount of satisfaction that wed coped. But now for that hot shower!! Kelson dropped us back at the evergreens to clean up with hot water, where we rested, swam in the blue hole area (bliss to it all), before leaving for the airport. Certainly a first for us both- only 2 kms down a dirt track- we are now able to say that wed walked from a hotel to an airport!
Flying back to port Vila was another special experience. Once we and our luggage! had been weighed in, our tiny 20 seater plane took off. With no stewardess and no cockpit cabin door, rog sat behind the pilot and with 75mins total concentration, managed to fly the flimsy plane himself!
For our 2 remaining days in Vanuatu, wed chosen a slightly more expensive lodge on the other side of the capital, by the ocean. With clean sheets, aircon, a fridge and hot water we felt like it was the Ritz. The Korean owners spoilt us by taking us to the supermarket to buy food at no charge, and later to the airport as well as to town. This time went quickly- we visited phoebe and nicko at the hospital, and were able to observe first hand the basic shabby facilities they have to put up with. Ideas of doing a similar voluntary spell are at the forefront of our minds. We also met Jenny, an eccentric Australian lady in her 70s who comes out here twice a year to teach artwork in remote islands all voluntary. We spent an enjoyable evening listening to her tales as we shared a picnic of cheese, coconut crab, pate and bread. What a brave lady she is, and inspiring for our future. On waking our last morning, we had no food left for breakfast, so caught a bus to a small exclusive lodge not too far away. There we pigged out on a huge breakfast overlooking a lagoon that was famed for its close to shore fine snorkeling. A wonderful way to spend our last morning- being treated like royalty and snorkeling amongst reefs in calm warm waters with an abundance of fish. Amongst them, we saw a huge (1m) conger eel, several sea horses, and a lion fish.
All too soon, it seems we were airborne and on our way to Melbourne to see rog daughters. This pacific trip was quite something- my mind is in a blur.
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