a pretty transvestite 
locals at church 
sunset over the pacific Tonga
The only kingdom left in Polynesia, almost forgotten by the modern world, runs along the international dateline, very religious, with no mass tourism, yet with English widely spoken. Its safe, with idyllic offshore islands, caves, coral gardens, has pleasant weather all yr round, warm and humid. Only a 2 ½ hr flight from Auckland. Thoroughly recommended.
Accommodation
We stayed for 5 nights in tiny Heilala holiday lodge- 10 fales (reeded cottages) set in an exotic traditional garden setting with a small pool and restaurant, about 3 kms inland from the main town. The grounds were full of tropical lush trees; banana, breadfruit, mangoe, papaya, coffee, vanilla and other African shrubs such as cyclads and sugar cane. Next doors chickens loved the undergrowth as they scuttled through it. The cockerels crowed all day and night- obviously confused by what is night and day (Tonga ignored the international dateline and measures time with NZ +1, when in fact it should be yesterday!! What a find. The owners- a german and his tongan wife had done a house exchange with wolf and sue- a german couple who live near us in Auckland. What fun we had with them and another american helper, mary, as we watched them learn the tricks of the hostelier trade.
The other 2 nights,( coinciding with my birthday), we spent on a small coral island, just 10 mins ferry from the mainland. Paingamoto island has no electricity and only rain water. Here there were 6 similar fales, but on the beach. Much shabbier, we spent the night listening to rats running around in the thatched roof- munchin away at all sorts of stuff- including our bananas and bread rolls.!!
The people
They are BIG- both in size and personality. No wonder they make such good rugby players. Extremely friendly but not at all pushy. Welcoming but not oppressive. They are like Tonga itself- slow and easy.
For example-a man who took pity on seeing us walk and insisted on giving us a lift despite the expense of fuel here.
Traditional costume is worn on Sundays, outings and to school- like wearing a tie-dressing up. Both men and women wear a type of woven basket apron (pandama)- which looks really uncomfortable, but apparently isnt. The men seem at ease with their wrap around long skirt called a tupenu.
Lifestyle for the women means cooking sewing and bashing away on tapa bark to make the traditional paper for writing, souvenirs and wall hangings. We both watched and listened to the hollow sounding persistent hammering of this craft as it floated thru cocnut trees.
We were to learn about Fakaleiti, -transvestites- who are accepted with pleasure into everyday society in the whole of the Polynesia culture.
We were also to experience a funeral next door to our lodge. As Tongans mourn for 10 days, we were privileged to listen to beautiful hymn singing in the evenings, with visiting choirs, along with strange wailing and praying that is a very important part of their bereavement. On our last day there, the body was walked several kms along the main road to the burial site. What a sight all traffic came to a standstill whilst the entourage walked slowly along underneath a large tent that was supported by people with props on the 4 corners. This protected a truck which carried the body which in turn was led by a brass band playing a really slow melodious rendition of the hovis advert. Lastly the mourners followed behind in traditional costume.
The food
Tongalese traditionally cook in a umu- as elsewhere in the pacific and similar to our maori hangi. The umu is hot underground coals which cook vegetables, fish or meat in coconut milk wrapped in banana or taro leaves, slowly over several hours.
Our breakfasts were a variety of tropical fruits- including coconut from their garden and toast and jam. Our evening meals were local fish cooked with veg in coconut milk. Yummy. The markets were full of local produce- taro, yam, cassava, sweet potatoes, bananas and coconut. Their staple food is corned beef would you believe, but this is cooked as above in spinach and coconut milk. Abs delish. Cream of lobster soup so fresh and delicious that I am drooling as I write this. Raw tuna in a piquent sauce.
Excursions
On arrival we were met by the lodge folks who took us to our home, then promptly drove us into town for a short orientation, leaving us to find our own way back by public bus to our accommodation. That all happened very quickly, but after the initial shock had passed over, suited us. We sat and savoured Tongan cuisine whilst absorbing a totally different Polynesian culture pass us by.
We hired bikes, with the intention of touring the whole island. mmmmm. Despite the flat terrain, all too soon we realized the distances involved, the lack of signs and dusty tracks. Buildings that were falling down, giving the appearance of a country with little tourism and money, a rain storm- albeit warm, and dogs that threatened to bite at our ankles!! We soon gave that idea up--- as fun as it washalf a day was sufficient, even thought it is a great way to meet the local people
On that bike ride we met maria- a Tongan lady who offered to take us on a drive the next day with her daughter Ester. Despite a heavy overnight rain storm we pitched up at their house, were treated to a Tongan snack of corned beef and yam, then driven over to the western coast to see flying foxes (large bats), blow holes and the beaches. Such a delightful family. Rog had fun playing with marias granddaughter.
Giving up on the bikes, we organized an official tour of the eastern side with a minibus. We swam in a dark cave sitting on stalagmites under the water, and saw tombs with artificial flowers, gaudy plastic images and quilts hanging in the breeze.
Mini buses are the main form of transport. Cheap, scruffy and crowded, we joined the locals and school kids on a couple of occasions to and from town, 3kms away. So curteous- we were always given seat despite standing room only. We had to laugh over the comparative decadence of dvd players or decent music systems, when the only way to stop the bus was to pull on a piece of string attached to a bicycle bell!, also there were no doors on the bus at all!
Our trip over to Paingimoto island was brief but enough to imagine what it must be like to live on a tiny island with no luxuries. It took just 20 mins to walk around it, with lots of sand at low tide and stunning sunsets. Yellow sands, coral reefs, rusty ship wrecks, clear still blue waters, tropical fish, an occasional frigate bird flying over head, cold showers and paraffin lamps. Warm sunny days with nothing to do except swim, read and watch boats. The American navy had dropped anchor within eye sight, in a nuclear ship, here to celebrate the 2 week long heilala festival. The owners of the island restaurant took us over to the mainland one night to watch a spectacle of this festival- miss galaxy queen. It turned out to be an absolute hoot- a beauty contest for transvestites! 9 hopeful candidates dressed up in evening wear and ball gowns, demonstrating their femininity up and down the catwalk, much to the delight of the audience which included a mottled bunch of a princess, a priest , business men (sponsors), just a mere handful of tourist and the local townsfolk. We were fortunate to be seated right near the front and despite initial panic and disbelief (what are we doing here!), we really enjoyed the novelty of it all. It was almost midnight when the prizes were presented, the queen crowned and we finally set sail back to the island watching a half moon shine over the water.
Being such a religious society, Sunday is a day of rest. Absolutely nothing happens except eating and church. No shops, taxis or business is allowed to be conducted on the Sabbath. So we set off to go to church with the king. Wed been told that the music and singing that accompany the services is spectacular, and we certainly werent disappointed. Brass bands accompanied hymn singing. Whilst the choirs were mostly unaccompanied, using exquisite harmonies. Despite the hr long service being conducted in tongalese, it was quite a magical occasion. The king left quite quickly, the only security being 2 policemen on motorbikes. This was a weslyian church, but Tonga island is full of seventh day Adventists, catholic, and increasingly, mormons. The latter have put lots of money into the country, persuading followers with promises of a good education and decent housing.
One evening we took up recommendations of attending a cultural evening where we were treated to music and dancing whilst we consumed vast quantities of local foodstuffs. Most we didnt recognize, except the suckling pig. This certainly didnt lessen our enjoyment of local cuisine. I still dont understand how they can make so many different flavours from such limited sources.
All too soon our week was up---- but watch outour appetites are wetted for some of the other south pacific islands such as samoa, fiji and Vanuatu.
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