maori boy 
maori leader 
watery fiordland January 2007
An emotional beginning to the new year- the girls leaving to go back to oz, our dear friends/cousins Barbara and Jem arriving at the same time, only to leave a week later. In that time we set off in a campervan convoy (theyd hired theirs), to the south island via rotarua. They were keen to experience its thermal wonderland after which we took them off to kerosene creek for a natural hot swim. The evening was rounded off in maori tradition with a hangi(food cooked in thermal steam), a walk amongst glow worms and cultural dancing, which to rogs delight included variations of the hakka. Next day we needed turbo speed to reach Wellington and our ferry across the cooks strait- a ride that was as beautiful as wed been led to believe. The boat drifted up these fiord like inlets in the setting sun. In that week we shared the fun of finding a campsite in the bushes in the evenings and concocting reasonable meals (thanks jem for the pancakes), and deciding where we should go the following day. Kaikora was the choice for whales and dolphins, but despite a helicopter ride for b/j, they proved elusive, tho we all saw a colony of fur seals. After crossing the island via lewis pass we explored pancake rocks at punakaiki, spotting hector dolphins close into shore. At fox glacier, b/j took a helihike up onto the glacier, enjoying a 2 hr walk up there.We were so enthused by their tales, that we decided to ease the trauma of their leaving the next day by doing the same. So whilst they headed off to Christchurch, we indulged ourselves (at great expense) on a helicopter flight up onto Franz Joseph glacier, thousands of years old. Wow- my first helicopter flight was elatory (if a tiny bit scary too). The pilot took us really close to the mountains- felt we could reach out and touch the trees, then he swooped and swirled around the cloudy mountain tops before dropping us down onto the glacier itself. For 2 hrs we walked, slipped and slithered with crampons and pickaxes into clear blue ice caves, melting clear icy streams, pinnacles and tunnels; such an exhilarating trip. All too soon, as clouds descended and with it rain and poor visibility, our guide radioed for the helicopter to return. That 10 min wait was a bit scary- the thought of being stuck up there overnight did not appeal! Once back on the ground our decision was whether to return back to Auckland, leaving the rest of the island for another time, or to continue on further south. The latter was the most sensible option due to the costs involved, but it wasnt easy- not only did we want to get back to continue our house renovations, but the journey without b/j might prove somewhat dull. However common sense prevailed, and we carried on, choosing a figure of eight journey in order to visit most of the island without doubling back. It seemed logical to carry on down the west coast, travel along the south coast, up the lower south east, cross the southern alps at Arthurs Pass, then over to the west again, finally crossing the north and back to the ferry at Picton. Phew what a journey- the distances and scenery should be mind blowing.
In the end it took us 4 weeks in all. Much of the time the weather was cool wet and windy (I even gave up and switched my camera onto black and white mode). On the occasion it was hot and humid sand flies came out in droves, biting us, leaving itchy venom behind that lasted almost a week. Thanks nature. Our hand made repellant of dettol and baby oil worked a treat- if a little whiffy! Much recommended to fellow travelers- although another is to smear your skin with marmite-Ive done both! Just remember to wash it off next day. One advantage of this anti photographic weather is that it enables subantarctic wildlife to exist here. On no other mainland in the world can you see a colony of Royal Albatross sitting on eggs or yellow eyed penguins returning from the sea to their nests. We saw both, along with the rare hector dolphins, as well as dusky and common species.
Our next main stopping point after the glacier, was the inaccessible fiordland. Passing briefly through queenstown, our destination was milford sound. The road to get us there was supposed to be one of the worlds finest, with the destination one of the wettest places in NZ- both most definitely lived up to this statement. There was water everywhere. It cascaded from the skies as much as it did from mulitiple waterfalls. Taking a boat trip up the sound, the skipper had great fun steering us right under the deluges. Anticipating such fun, wed dressed up in all our waterproofs (thank you simon), leaning over the rails like kate and Leonardo (well we just had to go for it). Clouds and low level mist occasionally cleared to reveal sheer 1200 m sides of snow topped fiords, spectacularly beautiful, even with this visibility. Dolphins and seals entertained us as we sidled alongside vertical rocks.. One night a kea (rare mountain parrot) flew down to NW as we hid in a copse. He sat patiently watching us until dusk 4 hrs later. Heading southwards yet again, we stopped off at manapouri- a power station 2kms underground. Accessed by boat across a lake, this hydro electric power scheme uses the natural power from lake water, tunneling it down to exit in the tasmin sea, sending some electricity back into the national grid, with the rest ( 80 going many kms away to an aluminium smelting factory on the very southern most patch of the south island.
From here we journeyed as far south as the roads permitted- to Invacargill to visit matts (one of our mews boys) parents. After having a nice lunch with them we set off to tour the aluminium factory. What they make is so pure the new airbus 380 has ordered their products. Both this and the power station made very worthwhile excursions.
After much deliberation- shall we or shant we go across to stewart island (no, its too expensive, cant take NW and its only another island with scenery and a boat trip!!) we continued an around the southern coastline. Only 5000 km to the south pole!! It was along here that we stopped to look at a fossilized forest on the beach. Standing on a tree that was from the Jurassic age- 180 million yrs old- up out of the sea popped a yellow eyed penguin. What a treat- we sat for ages patiently watching him preen himself, before waddling across the rocks to his nest in the cliffside. Poor chap- he looked exhausted after his long stint at sea. Further along we watched sea lions and fur seals playing with their pups on rocky beaches. At one stage we walked right past one, thinking it to be a rock! Fortunately he wasnt bothered by us we had been warned to keep a 10m distance as they can be aggressive. Still further- and where the tasmin reaches the pacific, we were privileged to be able to watch royal albatrosses fly into the evening air. With a wingspan of 3m they were an awesome sight. Less David Attenborough type activities in that area included filling up pure spring water from the local brewery. Not sure about the beer- but the water was delish.
Heading northwards, the Canterbury plains didnt fill us with much excitement- bit like Lincolnshire!! True to form they produce good fruit and veg here, so all wasnt too bad!. Here we saw cattle paths that pass underneath the main roads, enabling the cattle to roam freely and safely. Continuing in our figure of 8 we crossed the southern alps to the west coast, via Arthurs pass- a dramatic climb of 900m with yet more exceptional views. On this day the sun shone brightly, (no doubt in defiance of my black and white filming mode), bringing out the colours in rivers-Tannin draining off the low peatland and blue from the melting glaciers. Along the route we passed podacarp forests with fuschias and hawthorn growing to over 10m. Typically the heavens opened before the evening was out, but at least we had a vision of the warmer weather ahead in this northern half of the south island.
Along the coast at Punakaiki with its rich verdant forests, we retraced ½ days journey that wed covered with b/j. This time tho the sun shone gloriously, so that we could look at the rugged and untamed coastal strip. With better weather we camped out at the exposed headland named by captain cook as cape foulwind, scanning the skyline after dusk for McNaughts comet which we understand isnt visible from the northern hemisphere. However, unsurprisingly, clouds descended to prevent us seeing what we gather to be quite a visual spectacle. Damn.
Our next port of call was golden bay. Friends of friends (and also of our uk girls) had settled there, and had asked to see us, giving us a reason to explore the remoter north west shores of this island. On route we drove through the beautiful buller gorge, before descending to their area- intensively cultivated. Fortunately wed arrived at the start of the fruit season, so we were able to feast off a glut of cherries, plums, apples, kiwis, strawberrys, blueberries, raspberries, and pears. Hops and grapes were also successfully growing. Reading about abel tasman national park, (NZ smallest) we couldnt resist visiting it before reaching golden bay itself. Described as stunningly beautiful, its main attraction is its inaccessibility. Tramping or sailing are the only way to experience its bushland. Too lazy to do either ( we did consider a kayak but couldnt find one). We drove as far as the dirt roads allowed, to the seashore. There we were greeted with golden golden sands and crystal clear waters. Unable to resist the calm shallow waters we swam, exploring small coves and caves at low tide.
Meeting alan and liz for lunch was quite refreshing- theyd come out from the uk 7 yrs ago and adjusted well. Bad timing tho- they were due off on holiday themselves, so all too soon we were on our way again, following their recommendations to cross the island once more, on narrow gravel roads to the north western tip. Here we hoped to collect paua- a shellfish like abalone, from rock edges at low tide. Once again the journey enthralled us with tiny bridges over muddy estuaries that crept around inlets and hills. That evening we warded off the sand flies and now mosquitoes, by lighting a fire on the beach whilst cooking garlic bread and steak. Throughout NZ there is almost a total ban on camp fires, due to the high risk of forest fires. This was a treat indeed. Whilst we ate and swatted flies, the half moon rose, and the clouds cleared to reveal the comet. Its huge tail radiated across the dark sky- what a plus. Next day at low tide we set off in our wet suits ( sand flies try and get us now!) to brave the waters. Whilst I played, full of fear in the shallows, Rog set off into the ocean proper, coming out triumphantly with 4 paua adhered inside his wet suit to his nipples!! Now empty paua shells are beautiful, sought after for fine jewelry and decoration. The paua themselves are black, large (palm sized) slimey slug type shellfish. If cleaning them was a palaver (lever out with a screw driver, trying to avoid penetrating the hidden intestines which had to be cut off with a Stanley knife), preparing them was even worse. Wed been warned to tenderize them by smashing them with heavy weights. Using local tools- rocks off the beach- we pummeled them, but as they were so slippery ended up chasing all over the place. What didnt end up like mince, we sliced. Not too sure of our hygiene!! We soaked all the mess in vinegar and garlic, hiding it in the fridge til another day. Out of sight out of mind!. The next day, before wed even had time to eat them, we found a huge crop of mussels on another rocky beach. Unable to resist the temptation we retrieved 2 hatfuls (all we had on us), before putting them in the fridge too.
Our last couple of days in the south island, with wonderful weather, we idled the time away in tiny coves of the Marlborough sound, swimming in its icy emerald green waters, then later sitting near a babbling brook aptly named tennison inlet. Into our 5th week away without mains power, our secondary battery level was low, so we emptied the fridge by devouring our way through its contents. You will be delighted to know, but not as much as us, that the paua were delicious- tender too. Like traditional hunters we have saved the exquisite shells like trophies. This final stretch of our journey back to the port of picton took us across the northern coastline- full of islands, inlets, channels, green hills and turquoise waters, all looking wonderful in the sunshine. This made the ferry ride back to Wellington comfortably calm. Phew.
From Wellington to Auckland we took the only route wed previously missed out the hutt valley, far eastern coast via hastings and napier stopping at mushroom farms, a paua factory, chocolate manufacturers and cheese farms. Our last port of call was via taupo to revisit our South African friends and their family before they flew back home.
Back home we said goodbye to this nomadic lifestyle, temporarily. Gone is the day to day routine of shopping for essentials, cooking with basic facilities, searching for somewhere to pitch for the night, remembering to fill up with enough fuel and water to last us the length of our intended journey. To drive off the road, finding a little hiding place to put up our shower and clean up---not forgetting going off into the bushes with a trowel!!! We will give up nights in riverbeds, on sides of mountains, either above or in the middle of the cloudline, in woods, in carparks, at sea level and at 3000. Instead we swop it for the suburban life of Auckland-----until next time.
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
