Europe- the last leg to the UK

Which route? In agreement (thank goodness!) we both elected for the Mediterranean coastline -for the warmth and also intrigue with Albania and the former Yugoslavian states. We intend to potter along at about 80km an hour to maximize fuel, wallow in the scenery, and if the weather permits take long lunch breaks in the sun to read and top up Vit D levels. Otherwise our daily routine should remain the same- fill up water tanks, collect firewood, purchase local foodstuffs, wash then dry out clothes (hanging best smalls out of car window- tatty ones on radiator!), then the biggest hurdle of all (and usually most gratifying)- to find somewhere to pitch up camp, light a fire and cook dinner. Weve found such excellent spots in the past, we think our standards are too high to continue----and will Europe let us anyway? Then of course our household info from leaving RSA to arriving in Europe;

 Fuel=1058 pounds ( 8.39 daily)

All else = 2499 pounds ( 19.83 daily)   total = 28.22 pounds daily or R 324

Kms = 23008 =182 daily

GREECE 23^RD 25^TH MARCH

Customs entry-real synch, 5 mins max- official took 1 look at our smoke stained smelly kitchen equipment and walked off in disgust!! Gave us 6 months to run around Europe in importing Zebedee. Best of all didnt part with any money despite the disinfection treatment. Out first step was to find a map of Europe, which neither of us had thought about pre trip. We ended up desperately getting one that was dated 1994! Much better than nothing though.  Camped on a rocky ledge overlooking the Ionian sea the first night, when it began drizzling early morning. Then we drove across the northern part of Greece, recognizing signs of spring despite the mountains having snow on them. Magpies, swans, trees in bud and deciduous fruit trees in blossom. The home of retsina wine and taramasalata. Mmmmmmmmmmm.  Food cheaper then Turkey, but appalling internet service. 2nd night we camped near Edesse- a cliffside town that surely must be the wettest place outside the tropics. We slept under a series of torrential waterfalls, whilst the heavens opened most of the night too. When we finally braved it to peer out of the tent in the morning- visbility was down to 3 metres. Great. We decided to splash our way through to explore the town and its water sources only to find that it was the Greek National day. So we got to see not only this mass of canals and rivers that ran through the town but also the celebrations that consisted of marches from the forces and other institutions. Quite an unexpected privilege. Another real treat was finding a hot water spring to plunge into. Those in Turkey had all been shut off season, as this was; but the kind caretaker showed me an outside pool to soak up in. Ignoring the moderate pong of sulphur it took 3 secs to get me in and 3 hours to get out. What bliss- and what a clean body again. Trying to find the exit road to Macedonia was just that- trying. We went round n round in circles, but once there-all was speedy and straight forward.

MACEDONIA- 25^TH-26^TH MARCH

Ridiculously speedy border crossing, euros accepted happily even though not legal tender. Rural landscape, lots of small time farmers using hand held appliances. Cheap food (bought 4 apples, banana, 2 kiwi and huge loaf for 1 euro). This is the place for us! Fuel same as Greece.

Sun came out just in time for us to find another lakeside hiding place to dry out. Snow capped mountains have followed us, so although warmish by day, brrrrrrrr at night. Trees have been devastated by recent snow fall- broken branches everywhere and lots of water. Would like to spend more time exploring but alas-must press on. Easy border exit too.

ALBANIA 26-27^TH MARCH

Bit of a language problem at the border (to be expected I guess), and had to pay a disinfection tax, car tax and tourist tax, but quite moderate amounts. Euro accepted, but again- not legal tender (even with the custom guys?!) But all in all efficient. Many roads absolutely appalling- pot holed, full of police traps (how can you speed at 5km per hour!) Reminded us of Mozambique. Youngsters make the most of the situation of slow traffic and water rushing off the mountains by setting themselves up strategically advertising car washing! Our route-suggested by an Albanian lorry driver, took us down some beautiful mountains, alongside a river and a railway track. This track must be the most scenic in the Western world- a series of viaducts, bridges, tunnels and river crossings. Stupendous. However, once down on the flat coastland, there were people, smallholdings, building sites (yes, the expected join with EU, along with the departure from communism has given them inspiration) and cars everywhere and so we were unable to find anywhere to stop for the night. In desperation after dusk we opted for a flat concrete garage slab on the main roadside next to a derelict house. All seemed ok while we cooked, but just as we were about to climb the ladder to bed, a guy came along. He couldnt talk English but we gestured that we wanted to sleep there. He didnt make a fuss, but there again was very serious. Rog gave him a beer; we hid in bedthen awoke to find hed pinched our only 2 camp chairs which wed left out by mistake. Damn. Now these chairs wouldnt be sellable in a car boot- they have fallen apart regularly and held together by anchor clips and bits of material. But theyve come a long way with us- sentiment and comfort are attached! Now our only seating o/s the cab is on Zebs tail gate which is usually wet with water and/or diesel.!

Continuing along Albanias only road northwards we watched the unexpectedly pretty countryside pass us by. Snow capped mountains hugged us on one side, whilst the sea remained on the left-albeit out of sight. New pastel coloured 3 storey houses set in small holdings- all cultivated with fruit and veg, looked very alpine. Needing fuel, we worked out that at 65p litre here was cheaper than any other European country. Changed money in a bank- very high tech- got a wonderful rate for the pound against the Kuna rather than euro, which made diesel even cheaper at 60p. Filling up at the pump- up came an Albanian who was studying at Boston College last year! What!! A great guy, we chatted for a while- he said there were only 2 other English speaking in the area, but sadly had to continue with his job. NB Boston, UK is Rog and mine home town- small and rural. Wow, what a small world.Whilst we were talking Rog was frantically trying to stop diesel from pouring out of a split in one of the containers he was filling. O dear- more diesel smells i fear. His solution was to stick duck tape over the gash. Coming across an internet café a bit later- run by teenagers, they took us under their wing-even cycling off to buy us some yummy local pork and relish sandwiches. The computer technology was really up to date- accepted my website, photos and hotmail. Ironic that Greece, supposedly years ahead is way behind in some instances. Journeying on to the border, the road disintegrated into a single lane track complete with sheep and pigs and a lakeside. Exiting at the deserted customs was quite a giggle. The guy found that the wrong reg number was on our Albanian paperworkand wouldnt accept it. He called his supervisor, meanwhile opened up our kitchen box- couldnt cope with its rancid contents, then Rog promptly dropped Zebs keys on the floor- which just happened to have a deep grate there!! Tee, hee- got them out with Barb n Jems braai tongs- so all was smiles, particularly when Rog made up for his clumsiness by seeing the paperwork mistake and correcting it. Great country- we wish them well for their EU application.

MONTENEGRO 28^TH-29^TH MARCH

What a fabulous country- so much splendid scenery in such a small place. The most southern of the former Yugoslavian states, Montenegrins use Euros and most were familiar with basic English. At the border entry, one official was smoking and watching telly, whilst the other was playing cards on her computer. A definite air of relaxation was noticed. Meanwhile fishermen cast their rods into the lake right on the border post. In 10 mins we were through and hadnt parted with any money. Montenegro has several nature reserves, monasteries, lakes, mountains and a beautiful coastline with plenty of leisure areas and few people. Quiet roads in good repair. Alas we lost quite a bit of diesel into the truck again- and its our only seating source now.

At night we found a rocky outcrop in trees, overlooking a lake to sleep peacefully, then by day crossed the mountain range to drop down to the sea. The med here is a deep blue- glasslike and clean. Off shore is a mass of islands and peninsular from the main land that envelope and twist leaving lagoons, bays and fiords. We meandered around them all, loving this area. Twice we were stopped by police for not having lights on-it seems that it compulsory- odd given brilliant sunshine and little traffic. All too soon we found ourselves at the border- went through in 2mins-didnt even have to get out of the car. Did we smell of diesel that much?

CROATIA   28^TH31ST MARCH

Another beautiful country particularly the southern parts. We followed the mountainous coastline until the very north, meandering along quiet roads overlooking hundreds of islands just offshore, in a very deep blue Adriatic sea. This coastline is reputedly the warmest in the med. All in all we travelled about 600 kms looking at lakes, inland waterways and bays-some with tiny villages nestling in coves. A yachtsmans dream- lots of safe anchorage. Days were sunny and bright, although a gentle breeze kept it cool. Roads were excellent but the drivers a bit of a nightmare with death wishes for overtaking at speed on blind bends. Fortunately at this time of year, traffic is light. Still odd that the law remains of keeping headlights on 24 hrs a day.

The evenings seem to be getting lighter very quickly- even at 8pm we can just about see in the twilight to open up the tent. (we leave it until the last minute to avoid cold air seeping in) Our first night we slept in a tranquil spot- on the sea shore by a derelict monastery with its own tiny marina and fresh waterfall. The 2^nd night we found a track about 180 above the sea, also deserted. On the 3^rd, we came across a tiny chapel in woods, where during the night we heard wild boar scuffling under the ladder seeking out our veg scraps. What a delightful sound. By day we bought fresh mussels, local citrus fruits, washed clothing in the waterfall, and struggled to work Zebedees keys (gave up and used spare set), looked at daffodils and blackbirds.

The northern part of Croatia became very dry and barren for the last 120 kms or so. Even the offshore islands were of dull grey rock and devoid of life. These mountains swept right down to the sea, making access difficult. On our way out of the country we were forced to take an autobahn- wed avoided them up till now cos of boredom and expense. This turned out to be a real blessing as stopping for coffee, we found hot showers. An Australian girl was in charge of the place- really chatty and helpful. We ended up paying just 5 euro each for copious spotlessly clean hot showers, 2 cappuccinos and a doughnut. Travelling makes you so much more appreciative of lifes little pleasures that one normally takes for granted. The exit again was straight forward-anything to declare- not jolly likely.

BOSNIA AND HERTZOGAVENIA 29^TH MARCH

Just a quick mention as Croatias coast road was broken up for 17 kms by this country. They must have needed sea access I presume. No need to show passports for transit passengers- which we were.

SLOVENIA 31^ST MARCH

The most northerly of the former Yugoslavian countries- we headed forward to Italy on about 100kms of Slovenian roads. No problems at customs- the country seemed full of wine growers and looked like Devon in winter except houses were chalet alpine type. So next its Italy, Austria, Germany, Luxembourg (for cheaper fuel), Belgium, Franc and the ferry from Dunkirk (cheapest route we think)

ITALY 31^ST MARCH 1^ST APRIL

Straight forward customs- cursory glance at passports and brief exchange of pleasantries. Bonjourno- home of friscati and pizza, and the most exotic sensuous language in the world. Found a beautiful glade with thousands of wild flowers-crocuses, snowdrops and primroses in green grass amongst wintering leafless trees. Awoke to the sound of 3 different church bells and the crying of green woodpeckers. Bliss. Zeb, Rog and I then climbed up to the Alps into the snow, using small scenic roads-hairpin bending. We enjoyed the alpine scenery so much. And the border exit- unmanned. Great stuff

AUSTRIA 1^ST APRIL

Alas, such a short time in the Austrian Tyrol. Just an afternoons drive. So pretty- skiers in the snow and sun, long tunnel of 5kms+. Tempting to join in the snow frolics. Resisted! No border into Germany.

GERMANY 1^ST- 3^RD APRIL

This EU thing is great stuff- no border formalities at all. 2 nights here- the first we camped in 4 feet of snow in the Bavarian Alps. Was difficult to find anywhere to stop as only roads and footpaths had had the pleasure of snow ploughs. Were lucky to find a rubbish dump hidden in the trees that had been cleared. Very cold- our newly acquired thermometer registered 3 C outside and 7 in the tent when we went to bed. Brrrrr. In the morning though, it was sunny so we walked for an hour or so, enjoying the landscape that was like the old fashioned Xmas cards. Afterwards, our drive took us along the foothills of the Alps- stunning scenery, although April showers disturbed its beauty somewhat. As wed dropped in altitude, the 2^nd night was just out of the snow. This pine forest had mud and leaves instead! Germany on the face of it is very eco friendly.  We noted evidence of solar panels in abundance, wind generators, wood for housing as well as fuel, and widespread walking and cycling tracks. Impressive.

FRANCE 3^RD-4^TH APRIL

Our Route took us through the Alsace and Mossel regions. Very pretty rolling landscape with distinctive houses. We found an elm forest to sleep in this time. Deer quietly watched us most of the evening, whilst an over flowing river flooded past into the nearby fields.  On leaving here late the next morning, a forest ranger stopped us to tick us off for being there. Little did he know that we had used his hospitality for 16 hrs!

LUXEMBOURG 4^TH APRIL

Slipped into this little country to fill up with fuel- got greedy at 66p a litre and filled up our empty containers again. Arent we asking for trouble with another split jerry can?!  A further night in a forest- chilly to say the least. At zero outside and 3 degrees in the tent, you could say we froze. With the icy wind that blew up it was even colder. The tent in the morning was even stiff to collapse. (I know you guys in SA think this sounds blissful when you are excessively uncomfortable in the heat and humidity- BUT!). After defrosting ourselves inside zeb with heating flat out, we drove through the Ardennes region of BELGIUM and then back into northern FRANCE this time through the farm lands.  Desperate for a final shower before hitting our fans in the UK, we drove onto a motorway toll road- excellent because the hot showers were not only copious but free.  Arriving at the port we were offered a bargain ticket if we sailed the next day- at 24 pounds-most definitely. So our last night was spent on the quayside- again in chilly conditions until we awoke to the alarm clock. Yuk-memories of time and obligations- with our freedom slipping way so fast. The actual crossing was a dream. A 2 hour sail, with calm seas; on a glitzy boat-only 6 months old, with steel and beech associated with show homes. Hot running water and sit down loos with toilet paper. Aaah.  Expectedly though this day was tinged with mixed emotions sadness that the adventure was over. Both felt we could turn right around and repeat the whole trip again, or go onto new pastures. In other words we didnt want it to end! At the same time there was a sense of satisfaction combined with a dumbfoundness that our trip had been successful- and dare we say ityes-easily. Zebs performance exceeded our expectations, as did our relationship- which is even more bonded and pleasurable. So too- were we kept healthy and safe. Our self defense tools-pepper spray, scythe and stunt gun hadnt been used. Then of course we have our delightful family and also many friends to see.  With thoughts of who do we see and contact first- have no wish to offend- our emotions continued to cause turmoil until we sighted the white cliffs of Dover.  There, we had prepared ourselves for a lengthy interaction with UK customs- a SA reg vehicle containing dubious smelling merchandise, driven by an odd looking couple-hmmm! However- much to our surprise, we drove right through customs hall and onto the motorway to the M25. Shell-shocked, there was hardly time for a whoopee, before we had to concentrate on the heavy fast traffic. Was the last 20 weeks just a dream?  Whatever- it has been a wonderful time- and we both thank you so much for your support and enthusiasm on our website. Your response and readership was totally unexpected- we were not prepared for such a following. It really has meant so much to us- reading your letters and comments either via hotmail or on the website. So if you read this now, you know that we have slipped quietly back into the UK. Watch out- we will be in contact. And where to next??

final figures= 20weeks/140 days   27000 kms= 192 +£29.50 daily

                    (diesel= £1412.16 in total-£10.08 daily

                    gen costs= £ 2718.61 in total -£19.41 daily)