How time flies, despite the colder weather- aagh we are now leaving Asia already. We have just crossed the sea of Marmaris by ferry that delivered us from the Asian side of Turkey to the European part. A ten minute crossing- drive on and off type- just had time to watch a pod of dolphins cross in front of us. Leading up to the port over our 2nd week in Turkey, we followed the coastline, ducking off down tracks through olive plantations, pine forests and farmland, seeking out the sunshine and the increasingly difficult to find quiet spots. Sadly it seems the coastline has been developed all along with the exception of the Canakkale peninsular. There, at last a place time forgot about, the scenery reminds us of Cornwall- very rural- stone housing, rugged hills, farmland with crops and sheep grazing. Wifes and husbands toil the fields together night and day- the ladies cloned-short and dumpy- big bosomed, their bodies hidden in the same uniform- baggy long pants, heavy cardys and traditional headscarfs. The men are attired just as the farmers were in the 60s in the UK.

Everywhere there is evidence of recent heavy rain and snow that weve fortunately missed. Fields are flooded, rivers overspill, mountains topped with snow and mud, glorious mud. Rog had to paddle into an icy river bed with Zebedee to clean her up a bit. "A bit" he cries- "shes spotless now!" Actually we have had sun most days in one form or another, bringing wildflowers into bloom, trees are budding, birds are singing, whilst the bees are busy making honey from almond and orange bossom. One afternoon we were very fortunate to watch 3 tortoises making love. The ordeal (from her point of view) took ages- the 2 males chased, cried and thumped her shell with frustration!

Only 1 night did we venture into an official campsite- tempted by the signs" hot water. Alas, once wed paid up- the water was only cold- so had to boil some to wash our filthy sheets. Then we needed a fire to dry them- hence now they might feel clean but they smell of wood smoke!

The other nights we slept on the side of the glasslike cool agean sea, in a farmers field, in an olive grove, by a ferry crossing a tiny river and in a pine forest. Farmers seem to accept our presence with a nervy wave and occasional smile. Just once did they call the Police who came across as friendly, disappearing after only a cursory look at out passports. What would you have done Pam- sent us working in the fields for a day?

As feared, the electronic locking system to Zebedee continued its intermittent fault and finally locked us out. Fortunately our spare backup key was still trapped in its hiding place despite all the shaking of the past 20000 kms and we got back in.

Accommodation in Turkey has proved to be very cheap but we have been surprised at the price of food. Whatever denomination of coin or note we offer shopkeepers- be it for a snack, fish or loaf of bread, seems to be the bill. You never get change. Fish is twice the price of the UK and honey twice that of RSA. Can the locals afford it at that price- I doubt it- seems we are getting ripped off. Sad, as the Turks seem pleasant enough in a quiet unpushy way. With the added expense of fuel, Turkey seems to be an expensive place to holiday. We are fortunate in that the 2600 kms we have traveled in this country, has all been on Syrians cheap fuel. We expect to put in just 15 litres of Turkish diesel to reach the cheaper fuel in Greece.

Waiting at customs- trying to find someone to help us- as usual the officials skuttle off at the thought of having to sort us out. One official made a start of looking through zebedees contents- first box had wok off the fire last night- oily, black and smelling of smoke- he wrinkled his nose in disgust and was put off checking through anything else! So, next is Greece, the Euro and decisions on route- Bulgaria, Romania and Hungary, or Albania, Macedonia and Croatia? Watch this space.